Seemingly simple, baked apples can become an elegant dessert or brunch dish. Seasonings can vary widely: any nut or fruit, ginger in any of its forms, white sugar, maple syrup, honey, or preserves for sweetening. The most important thing is to choose a variety of apple that is firm, tart, and full of character. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Core through the top, stopping 1/2 inch from the bottom: 4 large or 6 small firm, tart apples, such as Rome Beauty, McIntosh, Jonagold, or Granny Smith Set the apples in a shallow 1- to 1 1/2-quart baking dish, just large enough to hold them without touching. Combine: 1/3 cup packed brown sugar 1/4 cup chopped walnuts, lightly toasted 1/4 cup raisins (optional) Grated zest of 1/2 lemon 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon Spoon the mixture into the apples and scatter any that is left into the pan. Dot on top of the apples: 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces Pour into the pan: 2/3 cup water or fresh sweet cider if available Cover tightly with a lid or aluminum foil. Bake the apples for about 30 minutes. Uncover, baste with the syrup in the bottom of the pan, and bake until they are tender but not mushy, about 10 minutes more, depending on the variety. Place the apples on serving plates and spoon the syrup over the apples. Serve warm or at room temperature. If desired, accompany with: Heavy cream or light cream or vanilla ice cream